The Ugly, the Bad and the Good.

Through the Storm -The Cruise - December 2017

The Ugly, the Bad and the Good.

After the storm in the Bay of Biscay, Lisbon was a Sight for Sore Eyes.

The Ventura

The Cruise Begins.

I’ve just finished a cruise on a P&O liner called Ventura. We went to Portugal and Spain with a final stop at Gibraltar before sailing back home. In all, the cruise lasted for twelve days. It was a very enjoyable holiday. Even in December, the weather is warm. Well, warm for a Northern European like me. The Mediterranean people were all wearing coats. Perhaps we tourists stood out like sore thumbs in our shorts and sandals.

We left Southampton on the 9^th of December at night. We cruised out of the Solent by the Isle of Wight and then into the Channel. It was evening. Carol and I explored the ship. We went to dinner in the Saffron Restaurant at about 6.45 am.

Nothing eventful happened during the first night. There was football on the TV. I watched this and went out onto the balcony to look out at the sea. It was a calm night and the sound of the sea was soothing. After a moment of reflection, I went to bed. The next day came. We were up bright and early and went to the upper deck's canteen. The food was great and there was plenty to choose from. This became the order of the day while at sea. A cabin attendant cleaned our room every morning and every evening. The service was excellent.

The Storm.

We had past Brest, off the coast of North-West France, and we were into the Bay of Biscay. When night came, we went to the restaurant and noticed the huge ship was rocking about. The weather was getting stormy and windy. When Carole and I returned to the cabin, the intense weather grew stronger. We were on deck eleven with a balcony cabin. I looked through the window of our sliding doors. Even in the night, I could see the white surf of the sea. It looked vigorous and forceful. I instantly developed a respect for how powerful the sea is. Never had I witnessed such a storm at sea. I had done a couple of rough channel crossings from Dover to Calais. However, this storm was something else. Every time that I crossed the Bay of Biscay in the past, I had been fortunate to cruise in kind weather and a serene sea. This was my fifth time crossing and I was to learn how strong the wild sea can be. I’m sure this was not the worst storm a veteran sea traveller has ever witnessed. But, for a casual holidaymaker like me, it was a meaningful baptism to the volatile sea.

As I moved away from the sliding doors of the balcony, I had to stop Carole from falling over. The huge ship was listing to port. It must have listed about twenty degrees. That is just a guess, but it seemed much more. I steadied my wife and clutched a corner unit. We were listing to port and our cabin was port side. I was staring through the balcony window again at the tempestuous sea. For a moment it crossed my mind that we would list too far and the cabin doors would smash against the violent sea. It was unnerving. What was actually happening seemed logical, once the Captain explained after the manoeuvre. The huge cruise liner Ventura was turning about to face the oncoming 100-knot winds. We did not realise this at the time. I was having visions of the famous movie, The Poseidon Adventure.

Once the Captain had turned Ventura into the oncoming wind, the ship straightened up. However, the huge vessel still jolted as it hit the waves head-on. The Captain came over the loudspeaker and explained the manoeuvre. The fear subsided and I was left awestruck by how powerful the sea is. I kept having flashbacks to my original wonder at the size of Ventura. This was when she was docked at Southampton. We were all getting ready to board her for our cruise holiday. Then to think how water could make such a formidable vessel seem minor and insignificant manifested. I lay on the bed in the darkness. We had closed the curtains to the sight of the thrashing waves. I was no longer afraid. I just lay there unable to sleep. We rolled slightly and jolted back and forth to the crash of waves against the front of our titanic vessel. We did not get too much sleep. It went on for hours deep into the night. I can’t remember when it stopped. Perhaps I did doze off temporarily. We woke to a clear blue day. The sea seemed a little choppy but nothing like the storm.

We learnt that we had been through a violent cyclone. The Captain had ridden the storm with great skill and had now turned the ship about and was upon the original course for Lisbon in Portugal. Several people had been injured in the storm. Some were so unnerved that they were going to leave the ship at Lisbon. I don’t know for sure if they did. There was much talk but the dust may have settled after the event. It was certainly an experience. Especially when the ship was listing due to coming about. I imagine as the Captain turned Ventura into the oncoming wind, there was the moment when the starboard side was hit by the full force of the wind. I still can’t get over the fact that such a huge ship could list so far in the sea winds. It was fearfully awesome.

After the Storm.

Dinner and Stories of the Storm.

The next evening at the restaurant, Carole and I sat down to dinner. We had an older lady whose arm was bandaged. She had cut it from her wrist to her elbow when she fell over during the storm. A man said he was clinging hold of the bar and saw another lady in a wheelchair topple over. As the ship listed, people stumbled with the tilt. The wheelchair hit a table and the lady was tipped out. The man clinging to the bar explained that his other hand was firmly gripped on his pint of beer. He went to some lengths to explain how he was able to turn the glass with the vessel’s tilt and refrain from spilling a single drop.

We all looked at the more humorous aspects of the storm. The lady in the wheelchair was helped up and she was fine after the event. She laughed it off and continued with the cruise. The lady with the bandaged arm was the same. It seemed Carole and I was fortunate to be in our cabin. We went back to our quarters after dinner and retired for the night. I watched a football match before going to sleep.

When I woke the next morning it was still dark but the lights of Lisbon were glowing in the night. As I went out onto the balcony, the Ventura was passing under the huge bridge that spans Lisbon’s wide river. By the time we docked the darkness was gone. The morning presented a clear blue sky and promised a pleasant day. There was a slight morning chill, but nothing like I would expect for December. Also, another delightful surprise was in wait. This was my third visit to Lisbon via cruising. I love the place and it never disappoints me – ever!

The Bridge at Lisbon.

700th anniversary of Portugal’s Navy.

Lisbon is a Sight for Sore Eyes.

There was an array of Portugal’s navy in the River Tagus. We were told it was the 700^th anniversary of Portugal’s Navy. This was an obvious cause for a historical celebration. The city centre is very close to where Ventura docked. One can walk into town from the ship. We knew the way as Carole and I have enjoyed the city on other occasions. Every time I’ve been to Portugal, it has been in the month of December and the weather has still been warm. I think that is why I love the city. The morning chill was subsiding and there was an expectation. Obviously due to the coming afternoon celebration of the nation’s memorial event. As we approached the open square that looks out over the River Tagus, we saw a long canopy covering an array of chairs. This was for Portugal’s various heads of state to celebrate the Navy’s 700^thanniversary. I would imagine Portugal’s supreme head of state was there too. (I don’t know if they have President, Prime Minister or what the name is.)

We spent the morning looking around the city shops and then sat down for a cup of coffee. Once back on board the ship, I could not resist taking photos of some of the military ships. There was also a replicated Portuguese galleon. The type of ship one might have imagined Christopher Columbus sailing in. The day had become warm and we later went up onto the open deck and gazed out over the River Tagus while eating lunch. The violent storm was now a fading memory. I love ships and found this to be a wonderful sight. As I looked at the tiny replicated historical Portuguese sailing ship, I could not help wondering how such vessels braved the tempestuous seas when crossing to the Americas. Especially after the violent storm, we had passed through. I was looking down at a tiny wooden vessel. It might as well have been a rowing boat next to Ventura. It certainly made me think of the seamen of later days. There would be another wonderful replicated ship during my cruise. One that I would be able to board and walk about on. But that will be another story.

Replication of a Historical Galleon from Portugal.

I Think This was an Italian Ship.

Portugal's 700 years of Maritime History.

© 2017 colin powell

Coming Up for Air by George Orwell (My Goodreads Review)

Coming Up for Air by George Orwell

My rating: 2 of 5 stars

This book made me think of a time when I tried to search for a nostalgic memory to find the environment changed. However, I read this after reading Orwell's later works. So I've been a little spoilt beforehand. If I'm honest, I was disappointed with this book. Orwell's other works are so much more compelling. The narration of a man suddenly taking an unexpected day off of work to go in search of a memory was something I could identify with. The disappointment of how everything had changed was also another thing I could understand. However, some things I understand are not always enjoyed reading. I know what it's like to be waiting in the depressed atmosphere of a dentist's waiting room. I'm not too keen on reading excellent narrative to describe such a thing. That is what this book is all about. Describing something one might prefer not to remember.

View all my reviews

Coming Back from Spalding on Sunday

My wife and I had decided to go to Spalding, Lincolnshire to get a few odds and ends. We could have gone to town or any other number of places but we decided on Spalding. It was a whim. We do this now and then when driving around the Fenland. On the way back, we decided to do some more scenic travelling. Just to be nosy and see the odd town we knew of but had not yet visited. 

As we got to the roundabout coming out of Spalding, I asked Carole if she fancied going home via Holbeach. She said yes as we both like to explore. After a few twists and turn offs along the various country lanes we came into Holbech. We got to the town centre and were stopped at some traffic lights. They seemed to stay on red for ages. We were at a crossroad. From where we sat, the little group of shops looked promising. There was a couple of old shops selling retro British things from the past. As the lights finally went green we cut across and turned into a car park.

We got out and walked back out of the car park to the retro shop selling all sorts of odd things from the past. There were actually two of these shops next to each other. Because it was Sunday, the establishments were closed. That was as good as it got. Apart from the old church, there was nothing else of interest apart from a huge supermarket. We had never seen so many empty shops and closed down public houses. The town centre seemed void of most shops. The town was a typical example of looking good at first sight but had nothing to offer. We soon went back to the car and decided Holbeach need some TLC in the town centre. Apart from the two retro shops and the old church, Holbeach was a bit of a letdown. The place seemed neglected in the town centre. It needs shops that are open. Not derelict. It was like something out of The Walking Dead dystopia TV series. 

Crooked Old Cottages of Chatteris.

Crooked Old Cottages of Chatteris

These neglected terraced cottages are in need of a great deal of TLC. Sometimes they get listed, but the light blue paint, the roof tiles and the windows mean the building needs a lot of renovation work. Who on Earth thought of painting the brickwork that vile blue? When one looks at each street door, it is obvious that there is little room inside.

I see these sad looking buildings every day. They are a long way from the idyllic little cottage of the fantasy world. Everything in this image seems like a sad vintage look at Retro British times. I prefer the happier clean look of the old ways. Even the obsolete telephone box makes the scene look like a dystopian image from a science fiction novel. 

I wonder how long it will be before a builder decides to take the matter in hand. My guess would have been that the building would have to be pulled down and new abodes put up in place. 

However, because these particular cottages have been like this for some time, I'm beginning to wonder if there is a preservation order on them. This would mean they cannot be pulled down but must be renovated in a retro authentic style. It has happened to some of the other cottages in Chatteris. This is not a bad thing, but I do hope someone does something soon. Especially that horrendous blue on the brickwork - yuk!

Nooks and Crannies of Downham Market.

Downham Market is full of odd little passageways and courtyards. They always look inviting and I can't resist going down them. I enjoy having a wander around the town. It is upon a hill and the little town centre looks as though it is captured in time. We were going to buy a house here when moving up from Essex. However, we settled upon the notion of moving to March in the end.

We still venture to Downham every now and then. Sometimes we do our grocery shopping there. It all makes for a nice afternoon out.

Read How Father John Tries to Solve His Dilemma

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Buzzard at Holkham Wildlife Reserve - Norfolk, England.

Carefully I crept through a line of conifer trees to look out over the lake towards Holkham village. I had seen a number of raptors and was feeling rather pleased with myself. However, Carole said she had seen one go over the treetops towards the marshland. Her eyes are better than mine and she does spot the birds of prey and point me in the right direction.

As I came to the edge of the wood I looked up and saw a common buzzard almost hovering. It was because the bird was battling the wind. This made its progress slow and I was almost underneath it. I began to click away with the camera and I'm positive the creature knew I was there. In some of the shots, I'm sure it is keeping an eye on me.

As I come to the edge of the woods and look up

I focus in and it seems the bird is standing still against the head on wind

Very slowly it moves forward

The wind seems too strong

It wobbles but faces the blustering wind

Then I begin to suspect it is aware of me

It is looking down at me

It knows I'm here

I'm sure it is not happy about my presence

Courting Marsh Harriers (Birds of Prey)

During a visit to Holkham Hall, we decided to take a quick look around the wildlife area by the coast (Holkham Beach.) The nature reserve is on the opposite side of the country road from Holkham village and the grounds to Holkham Hall. It had been a pleasant morning drive along the coastal road. The day was fine but blustery.

We entered Holkham village and turned towards the direction of the beach. This was through a gateway and along a rough road towards a line of trees where we found a parking spot and paid £3 for two hours. 

Leaving the car, we ambled along a bridal path with woodland obscuring the vast stretch of sandy beach. This was fortunate because it was a barrier against the wind. The trees on the rise sheltered us well. On the other side of the path was a marshy fen. This separated us from the country road we had turned off of. Gradually the walkway pulled further away from the distant country road from where we had driven to Holkham. It was these lake scattered marshlands towards Holkham that were of particular interest to me. I had my camera with me and was searching for birds of prey. I would not be disappointed. The blue sky was, by and large, clear with odd scattered clouds and the Marsh Harriers were out in numbers. It was a Marsh Harrier’s paradise.

I saw four in two pairs and think they were going through some sort of courtship. I took many shots as the birds twisted and circled in the thermals. They were still at a distance but the sight of them was grand.

A Day at Holkham Hall (Estate of 8th Earl of Leicester)

We got up early on Easter Sunday 27^th March 2016. My wife, Carole, had expressed an interest to go out for the day. She enjoys a drive out into the countryside and is especially keen on the Norfolk coastline around Hunstanton, Wells and Sheringham. To be fair, I enjoy this coastal road too. There are many things to do and see along the way. We have often passed a big walled estate called Holkham Hall and have said we should pay it a visit.

The great house was built by the first Earl of Leicester who inherited the huge estate back in 1707 at the age of ten. The house took thirty years to build. His family had owned the grounds beforehand. They are the Coke family and their founding ancestral fortune goes back to Sir Edward Coke who lived from 1552 to 1634.

At first, we went towards a wildlife area by the coast (Holkham Beach.) The nature reserve is on the opposite side of the country road from Holkham village and the grounds to Holkham Hall. We drove along a rough road towards a line of trees where we found a parking spot and paid £3 for two hours. Leaving the car, we ambled along a bridle path with woodland obscuring the vast stretch of sandy beach. This was fortunate because it was a rather blustery day, but the trees on the rise sheltered us. On the other side of the path was a marshy fen. This separated us from the country road we had turned off of. Gradually the walkway pulled further away from the distant country road from where we had driven to Holkham. It was these lake scattered marshlands towards Holkham that were of particular interest to me. I had my camera with me and was searching for birds of prey. I would not be disappointed. The blue sky was by and large clear with odd scattered clouds and there Marsh Harriers were out in numbers. It was a Marsh Harrier’s paradise.

After this walkabout, we decided to drive across the country road, up into Holkham village and visit the vast estate of the Earl of Leicester. The grounds are spectacular – a giant parkland surrounded by miles of wall. Beyond these grounds are farmlands that also belong to the current 8^th Earl of Leicester. How an Earl of Leicester comes to be living in Norfolk and not Leicestershire is beyond me, but this is so and has been for many generations. Perhaps the long line of Earls owned something in Leicestershire too. I’m not too sure how the titles work.

I parked in the car park just outside the grounds near a village where I believe the Earl’s groundsman and other employers live. We approached the great gates onto the estate and began walking along a road into the grounds. We were surrounded by woods and parkland. In the distance was a big lake and herds of deer grazing.

Carole and I were chatting about how vast these grounds were. We supposed the upkeep would be colossal in this day and age. Even the wealthiest aristocrat would be hard pushed to run such a huge house and grounds. It also made us wonder what type of income a person might have had to earn, back in the 1600s, to run such a vast establishment. It would take hundreds of people to maintain this beautiful estate. They all needed wages and the Earl would have to meet such a huge cost. It made the mind boggle. Back in the 1600s during times of widespread servitude, the wages may have been very low, but there would be accommodation, warmth and regular food from the kitchen for the army of servants that tended the grounds. The downstairs people, so to speak. Upstairs the nobility of England’s society would be waited upon by these people. Therefore in this day and age, the cost would increase because there is a minimum wage and the owners of Holkham would not be able to get the vast amount of servants happy to live under the old conditions.

As we walked along the curving road towards another group of trees we saw another car park inside the grounds and a play area for children. Several cars had passed us along the road inside the grounds. It was then that we realised we could have driven inside the estate and used a visitors car park closer to the stately home. However, the walk was better. It gave us a clearer idea of just how big the surrounding estate within the walls was. That was despite the farmlands beyond, which the Earl also oversees.

The whole place beyond the visitor’s car park was rammed with people visiting the estate. There were hundreds of us, all on a day out. Many families had dogs too. I’ve never seen a visitor attraction geared in such a pet-friendly way. There were family dogs of all shapes, sizes and breeds enjoying the day out with their owners. All animals seemed in tune and very well behaved. I did not see one pet getting over excited or barking to get near other dogs. Children were in the playground or riding bikes. Bicycles were hired out to families that wanted to explore the grounds without the long walking required. There were also tractor trailer rides for people who did not want to go too far on foot between various areas.

Carole and I love a walk, so we did not make use of such facilities. When we arrived at the cafeteria we saw the ticket office and decided to go for the whole sightseeing event. This was the farm museum, the walled garden and, of course, Holkham Hall itself. I wondered how the Earl of Leicester and the rest of the Coke family felt about hordes of people walking about their house. However, when looking at the sheer size of the place, I realised one could live in one section with its vast rooms and be completely cut off from other parts of the great place.

There must have been hundreds of families – hundreds of dogs on leads – everyone walking about mesmerised by the size of such a house and the surrounding grounds.

In the farm museum, the 8th Earl of Leicester was talking on a TV recording about the grounds. It showed him on his estate, talking about the running of the place. He said that 50% of the estate’s income was from farming and the rest was from visitors. With the number of people there, I could understand how the income from visiting must play an important role in the modern-day running of Britain’s vast stately homes that are owned by the aristocracy. I paid £30 for the tour. This was for Carole and I £15 each. There was also the coffee and eats, plus the glossy booklet. It was not too bad for the day. It was a whole day out and one can spend more in a pub getting sloshed. A visit to Holkham on a fine day was far better, in my opinion.

As we left the farm museum, we wandered out of the stable area that had been converted into a neat looking cafeteria. We walked around the front of the huge stately home of Holkham Hall. The huge place had just opened its doors to visitors. I was surprised that the vast array of visitors had not charged the doors to enter, but they all seemed intent on walking about and exploring the grounds. Therefore, I suggested to Carole that we might visit the house straight away. We did so. As I entered the front door we were greeted by a man checking our tickets. He politely and cheerfully told us that there was staff in most of the rooms and they would tell us things about the house and the rooms we were in.

  

I was breath taken as I walked into the main entrance hall from the grand lobby. There were marble pillars and a huge staircase. Another member of household staff was here and he gave us some info on the house too. Actually, we were only to see a section of the house which would have been a wing or two of the building. However, the size and splendour left me in awe. The rooms, ceilings, furniture and pictures were something to behold. Some of the chairs in the grand rooms were frayed from age, but the place was so vast. I was clicking away with my camera but even though I could get some of the splendour, a visit is really the only way to take it all in.

Everywhere in the giant house oozed with some form of extravagance. There were paintings of past relatives and friends in every single room. Some of the areas looked like connecting hallways, but even these had fireplaces, chairs and great paintings of historical aristocrats - huge portraits that hung from walls. Even an on-suite bathroom was lavishly decorated with such portraits. Some of these paintings were of people staring down from the wall on the toilet and bathroom. I had to laugh. Perhaps they were persons of less favour to be put upon such walls.

In one place I saw a painting of  Pope Leo X. A member of the famous Medici family. I had heard of this pope because young Henry VIII had gained favour from him when he first became King of England. This was when England was still loyal to Rome and before Protestantism came about in the later part of his reign. Pope Leo X ruled from 1513 to 1521. How the portrait came to be in Holkham Hall was strange to me. This is because the Coke family, who own the lands, acquired them via Sir Edward Coke who lived from 1552 to 1634. This would have been during a time of deep suspicion to anyone loyal to the Holy Roman church. I assume the picture was acquired at a later date when the sectarian feuding was dying away.

It struck me as an interesting picture to have among English aristocrats - evolved from Protestant England. Maybe there are many such pictures in other stately homes too.

Walking to the Gates to Holkham Hall. The estate is surrounded by a nine-mile wall.

Wooded area upon entry to the grounds

Walking along the long drive into the grounds

Old farming and baker's tools of the trade in the cafeteria

Past members of the 8th Earl's family

Farming equipment of the old days

Holkham Hall

Entrance Hall in all its splendour

The grand ceiling

I loved the pillars and grand doorways

Carole walks the inner balcony leading into the House

All alcoves had some type of sculpture

All walls were adorned with something of interest

The pillared landing led to the inner rooms

This was once a dining room and is sometimes still used

Even connecting Hallways looked like rooms

Most rooms had several doorways leading to other rooms

Every doorway had lavish gilding

Another connecting Hallway

Every room had portraits

We entered a splendid looking bedroom

The ceilings were wonderful

The bedroom had four connecting doorways

To the right of this photo was the on-suite doorway

It led to this bathroom. The chair to the bottom right of the bath is a toilet.

There was even a seat and desk in the bathroom

I have amused that this portrait stares down at the toilet and bath

I wonder how often this bathroom is used. The guide said the bedroom was on occasion used.

Entrance from bedchamber to bathroom

More friends and former people of the estate

Every doorway or stretch of the wall had a portrait.

Above each of the many fireplaces was a large picture of someone from the past

Every space was donated to something

No area went to waste

Entrance to one of the lounge rooms of the great house

Lounge area 

The embossed wallpaper was so thick it felt like carpet upon the walls.

Each room had its paintings

Every room seemed to have four doors

The views from the window of the grounds were fantastic

This floor leading to the outside is the front part of the house. I think we entered via the back

I wonder if the past dwellers walked about the house looking at such paintings

It was a bit like a splendour overload in some rooms

The portrait of Pope Leo X. This surprised me.

An inner chapel on the ground level overlooked from above.

Another view of Pope Leo X of the Italian Medici family.

The guide told us that some of the wall tapestries were English and others were Flemish from Belgium

I can't help wondering how many staff or servants the grand house needed to keep the place during the past

This was only part of the house that we see

The wall tapestries of this bedchamber were glorious

Carole makes for the door and another room

We came back out at the marbled pillar hallway. We then decided to look at the downstairs servant quarters.

Sir Edward Coke - The Lord Chief Justice who founded the family fortune.

The downstairs quarters where the kitchen staff worked

Holkham Hall's Grand Kitchen

Large spit for roasting with drip tray below. This also had holes for dripping fat to drain to lower trays

Leather jugs

Kitchen sink

Various ovens

When I saw the other side of the grand house, I realised we entered the house via the back lobby.  The front had a big fountain and stairway going down to the garden grounds. It looked a little grander with outer pillars and apex entrance. I imagined that guests in horse and carriage may have entered the house this way in the old days with balls and other functions etc. I did not notice this by looking at the brochure. The house is so grand that even the back seems like a front. Especially as the grounds entrance has a road leading to the back part.

From here we made our way around the lake. We had been lucky because while inside the great house, it had rained. Now we were leaving, the rain stopped. Carole and I ambled along towards the Walled Garden. The estate was 3,000 hectares in all and the walled garden within these grounds consisted of seven acres. All of this, as mentioned before was within a surrounding nine-mile wall.

When we got to the Walled Garden we entered and wandered around the paths. This was not yet in full glory as the spring was only a few days old. However, once all the plants were in full bloom, I'm sure the gardens would make for a very splendid sight. I liked the old walls and the big doorways leading to each section and I could imagine the old walls with the plants in full bloom.

I like old walls and gateways.

The gardens look sparse of plants, but as spring comes I'm sure the flora will look great

I can see the potential with these old walls and greenery when summer comes

The greenhouses need a little TLC

I just love the idea of the old walls with plants of all variety growing

Work in progress

I can see the bare ground becoming alive with plants and more upon the walls

In a few weeks, the veg will be growing

Again old doorways

I can see arched creeping plants over this entrance too

Carole holds an Easter chick

Then puts it back with the others

walking the walled garden

Bleak now but soon to bloom

I'm a glutton for the big entrance

As we wandered back across the estate grounds I saw a bird of prey

Also some visitors of fine colour

We observed the grazing deer

There were about a hundred or so grazing

A young looking stag